Archive for February, 2007

Leslie Pave

Asparagus, my old friend

First I must say that I appreciate the farmers’ markets that are year round. There is something very romantic about a quick run through a rainy farmers’ market. The combined smells of the rain and produce make the produce seem all that fresher, if that were possible.

Asparagus

I had to do a double take as I passed by Zuckerman Farms, as if I saw a celebrity over my shoulder. No, it was the first asparagus of the season. And with two hours left of the market, this is all that was left. I was obviously not the only one clamoring for a new vegetable in my 2007 winter repertoire.

MeloGoldHamada Farms had these beautiful Meyer Lemons ready to take home. I was tempted but there is a disconnect when it come to spending $2.00/lb on something that no less than 3 people on my street will almost pay me to take off their plentiful trees. I opted for the Melo Gold Grapefruit which is actually a hybrid of the pomello and marsh grapefruit. I have always stayed close to the ruby reds, but feel pretty silly about that now. The Melo Gold has a complex flavor that is not overpowering or tart. The real test for me was that I did not feel the need to sweeten the big juicy sections. Hazah!

I arrived at this event pretty down on Whole Foods, not because of Pollan’s book, but from my own experiences at Whole Foods. I pay far more for my groceries there than anywhere else, I am rarely impressed with the quality of produce and meat (although the produce department is beautiful to look at), and I have farmers’ markets and other grocery stores offering sustainably produced foods closer to my home.

I have an entirely different impression of Whole Foods after last night. I am impressed with the investments WFs is making in poor rural areas around the world, helping them put an end to poverty by growing our valuable organic produce. I am flattered that they boast a 100% repayment rate on micro-credit loans that they have given to women around the world to start their own food businesses. I have a new appreciation for big organic companies; realizing that they are not always bad. I see that there can be benefits to buying from outside your own community. I might be willing to pay a bit more if the money gives-back this much.

Will I shop at WFs? No. I still have a household budget to maintain, and the “true cost of food” gets paid for every week at my farmers market. As for Trader Joes, I may put some pressure on them to give back more than they do, but I am not ready to abandon them yet.

What would get me to shop at WFs? Sell the most sustainably raised meats available, the most local and seasonal produce at prices that don’t make me feel like I doubled my grocery bill.

I am sorry, John Mackey, that you got booed and hissed at a few times. Pollan and Mackey clearly disagree on many issues, but still treated each other with respect. Why couldn’t the audience afford the same courtesy? It was as if the hissers felt like they were invited to participate in the debate. Well hissers, you weren’t. Don’t agree with what Mackey said? Find your own channel to express it. This was not your time or your place.

However…this is my time and place so I would like to say that you, John Mackey, shouldn’t have backed down on Pollan when he was asking if his book affected WF’s bottom line or not. He was polite, but direct with you, so why not be direct with him? Unless you really were just teasing him, in which case that was pretty funny. I confess that I was hoping for a little controversy.

All in all, I am impressed that the two of you, despite your different visions of our path to a sustainable food system, effectively convinced us that there is room for many paths to a common goal. Thank you so much for the event.

The author of the Omnivore’s Dilemma, Michael Pollan, and Whole Foods CEO, John Mackey, inspired and entertained audiences at UC Berkeley’s Zellerbach Hall last night with a casual debate that has been brewing for months since Pollan’s book was published. In it, he attacked some practices of the upscale grocery chain, which Mackey subsequently found to be exaggerated. But perhaps the most impressive aspect of their discourse is how the corporate grocer humbly admitted that the critic was right about some of his accusations and plans to instigate some changes in quality assurance and animal welfare.

Since Pollan has had months of media attention to illustrate his investigations, Mackey’s presentation got the bulk of the time with a 45 minute lecture on the sorted history of agriculture, focusing on the up and coming ecological era that Whole Foods is arguably a major leader in influencing.

Even though Whole Foods may not be the grass fed, local, family farm Mecca that critics aspire it to be, Pollan challenged the audience not to see this as a fight between “the good guys and the bad guys.” Mackey’s five-minute video of industrial animal cruelty was a good reminder that everyone’s ultimate goal at this lecture is to move away from the previous generation’s animal husbandry. Pollan conceded that there is not only one true way to sustainably produce and eat, and if consumers think through the impact of their food choices, they are supporting a sustainable future.

Whole Foods has taken some hard hits since The Omnivore’s Dilemma came out. Mackey teased Pollan by suggesting, amongst other factors; Pollan is to blame for Whole Foods lower stock prices and loss of revenue. It wasn’t clear if there was truth behind the jab. Mackey did claim that after the book hit shelves, customers demanded products that Whole Foods could not provide quickly enough, such as grass fed beef.

Mackey encouraged the audience to let go of the “Whole Paycheck” cliché and see Whole Foods as a more dynamic corporation. For example, those higher prices go to programs that benefit small family farms world wide, fair trade practices and purchasing from poverty-stricken areas.

Whole Foods plans on creating a new set of organic rating standards that will be implemented by a third party for all food retailers. The 5 star system will focus on positive animal welfare conditions, sustainability for the environment, soil fertility, worker conditions and fair trade,

When asked about the dilemma in getting these expensive, nutrient rich foods to people with less money, Mackey didn’t think his answer through quickly enough and suggested people are getting wealthier and more should be able to afford organics. This led to boos and hisses from the passionate Berkeley audience. Quickly he changed directions and addressed the question quite well by saying, “If you are willing to cook, food is not that expensive, especially if you buy seasonally.” Approving applause followed.

Mackey summed up with “Whole Foods has many internal contradictions,” and reminded the audience that there is no blueprint to follow when running a corporation like Whole Foods, but “critics help us to grow.”

Pollan left the audience with an answer to the question he gets asked the most: What should I eat? “Let your food choices reflect your values.”

Leslie Pave

Root Vegetables Hallelujah!

Temescal Farmer’s Market 2/11/07
RootsPinnacle Farms had every root vegetable I can imagine and I wanted to buy some of each. But I am no stranger to buying more than needed only to find slimy brown science projects in the vegetable bin, so I settled for one parsnip, one celery root and some carrots. I still have one turnip from last week, which I roasted with a little olive oil and salt and pepper. The key is to roast them well, until they are soft and caramelized. I had to steal the darkest wedges from my husband’s plate when he wasn’t looking. As mentioned last week, I snacked on the raw turnips. Not bad at all. Those crazy Norwegians.

Blood OrangesThe blood oranges are still driving me mad. Why didn’t I get those when I was growing up? We had naval oranges, and maybe tangerines. Now it’s easy to find Satsumas, Blood Oranges, Tangelos and Pomelos. Can you imagine how beautiful a citrus salad would be. I think I just figured out dessert for tonight.

PeppercressAnd now I have been introduced to peppercress. It looks small and tender. The name warns you that it has bite. It’s often mixed in with salad, but I probably wouldn’t notice. I just want a bowl of peppercress with a little lemon juice. Or maybe with my citrus salad and I’ll eat it before dinner, because that now that I am all grown up, I have the right to eat dessert before dinner.

Leslie Pave

Blood Orange Bonanza

Grand Lake Farmer’s Market 2/2/07

Not all the oranges froze. Is $1.50/lb too much for navels? If variety is the spice of life, and you are getting tired of apples, no.
Be still my bleeding heart for those blood oranges. Was that a hint of cherry I detected?
Cauliflower is here! And now the smell in my house can prove it. I steamed it up for my babies in hopes to reduce the orange hue on their skin from eating only squash for the last three weeks.
Dirty little secret of the day… they didn’t teach me how to cook turnips in culinary school, and I never saw one turnip in any of the professional kitchens I worked in. I feel a little lost when I see a basket of root vegetables at the market, as if I should get excited, but am really too embarrassed to ask for directions. Today, I bought two. I’m told Norwegians eat them raw as a snack. I plan on roasting them with sweet potatoes and shallots, but I’ll take a quick bite to see what the Scandinavian rage is all about.